The River Roared Beneath Us: How the New Madrid Earthquake Shaped Land and People.

(Courtesy: Wikipedia)

Upon visiting New Madrid, Missouri, there are several reminders of the largest earthquake to ever rumble east of the Rockies.

Southern Missouri folks are made of a certain stubborn stuff. We’ve faced floods, harsh winters, droughts and the wild whims of Mother Nature, and regardless, we work the land, care for our livestock, and build communities that endure. Resilience runs in our veins — it’s how generations of farmers, traders, and riverfolk continue to thrive in the beautiful Ozarks.

In honor of an event more than two centuries past, Southern Missouri Lifestyle Magazine takes a moment to reflect on a time when the earth shook harder than a winter storm or a deadly bolt of thunderstorm's force. The New Madrid Earthquakes of 1811-1812 left the "Mighty Mississippi " running backward, people terrified, forests trembling, and stories that still ripple through history books and hometown folk's minds each January.

(Courtesy: Wikipedia)

A smalltown with a huge legacy, New Madrid, Missouri lays claim to a region that captures fascination from not only visitors, but also history buffs worldwide.  


The following is a historical documentation taken from an eyewitness who lived through the New Madrid Fault earthquake.

"I will never forget that morning. We’d been anchored with the dawn mist rising off the river, the water smooth as glass under a thin layer of steam. You could see stubborn mules standing on "the big muddy's" river bank. Their ears would perk when the boiler hissed like an upset woman. As I sipped strong coffee, with my elbows resting against the rail, everything seemed still — familiar. Without warning,a flock of birds scattered and the mules cleared away from the river bank. Then the earth spoke. It wasn’t wind or thunder. The Mississippi itself seemed to groan from beneath its bed. The surface bulged, then rippled backward — against its flow — as though some unseen beast had turned its gaze upstream. Trees cracked like splintering timber, ropes snapped, and the timbers of our boat seemed to shudder in protest. I fell flat like I'd been shot! Struggling to grab hold of anything secure, I clutched a cold metal rail. For a moment, I thought the whole world might collapse into the river!"

(Courtesy: Wikipedia)

It must have been a terrifying sight. With no warning, absolute terror flooded the countryside. Ships were tossed back and forth like play toys in an angry basin of the Mississippi River.

A Frontier Life, Upended!

Around 1811, New Madrid, Missouri, was a small frontier town clinging to the banks of the Mississippi. Cabins were scattered, the population sparse, and life revolved around the river, farms, and the occasional trapper. The land was largely an unsettled forest and farmland crudely carved from musty river bottomland, and the town’s population numbered only a few hundred. Life wasn't too bad, but things were about to change. The New Madrid Earthquakes of 1811-1812 would see to that. 

A Sequence of Tremors.

Surprising many history buffs, the New Madrid Earthquake wasn’t a single event — it was a SERIES of massive quakes stretching over months. 

  • December 16, 1811: The first and most powerful shock, estimated at magnitude 7 to 8, shook homes and cabins across the frontier. Some accounts describe water in wells sloshing violently and sand fissures opening across the land.

  • January 23, 1812: Another huge tremor split the earth in multiple places, warping forests and displacing entire fields.

  • February 7, 1812: The third quake struck New Madrid itself, leveling much of the town and creating new lakes and swamps in the river bottoms.

And the tremors didn’t end there. Aftershocks continued for months, and smaller quakes rattled the region for years, leaving an entire generation devastated by fear and living on edge.

(Courtesy: WDRB)

The New Madrid Fault (or New Madrid Seismic Zone, NMSZ) is a major, active fault system in the central U.S. Mississippi Valley, and remains the most seismically active area east of the Rockies, stretching across parts of Missouri, Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky, and Illinois. It's a complex network of underground faults, not a single visible line, characterized by frequent small tremors and the potential for large, damaging events, linked to an ancient rift in the Earth's crust. 

Why Few Lives Were Lost Back Then.

Despite their power, these terrifying earthquakes claimed surprisingly few lives in the 1811-1812 timespan. The frontier’s sparse population meant fewer buildings and fewer people in harm’s way. Most settlers lived in log cabins that, while flimsy by modern standards, were low and flexible — capable of withstanding the shaking better than heavier brick structures. Livestock, however, were often panicked, and many animals were lost. The land itself, upheaved by the quakes, became treacherous for both humans and animals alike. But the small population helped ensure that the quakes were more transformative than tragic.

Strange Happenings During the New Madrid Earthquakes of 1811-1812.

The New Madrid earthquakes were the biggest earthquakes in American history. They occurred in the central Mississippi Valley, but were felt as far away as New York City, Boston, Montreal, and Washington D.C. President James Madison and his wife Dolly felt them in the White House. Church bells rang in Boston. From December 16, 1811 through March of 1812 there were over 2,000 earthquakes in the central Midwest, and between 6,000-10,000 earthquakes in the Bootheel of Missouri where New Madrid is located near the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers.

In the known history of the world, no other earthquakes have lasted so long or produced so much evidence of damage as the New Madrid earthquakes. Three of the earthquakes are on the list of America's top earthquakes: the first one on December 16, 1811, a magnitude of 8.1 on the Richter scale; the second on January 23, 1812, at 7.8; and the third on February 7, 1812, at as much as 8.8 magnitude.

In an area of sparse population, there surprisingly were a few informal studies of the multitude of quakes that shook the New Madrid region. Turns out, while no formal seismologists existed then, naturalist John James Audubon was a key contemporary observer of the 1811-1812 New Madrid earthquakes, vividly documenting the ground's motion and Mississippi River reversals. He was in Missouri during the quakes and provided detailed descriptions, noting the ground undulated like water, the earth emitting odors, and the Mississippi River flowing backward.

As well, the New Madrid earthquakes were significant events for those who lived closest to the land, such as Native American communities, fur trappers, explorers and farmers. Perhaps their most scientific method of determining the severity of the quakes was measured in the disruption of their lands and trade routes. Accounts from settlers in the sparsely populated region described phenomena like the ground heaving and trees snapping.

(Courtesy: Audubon Society)

Famed ornithologist, John James Audubon, was working in Missouri and riding his horse when the earthquake struck. He described it to be the sound of a tornado and that his horse reacted immediately as if his footing was on smooth ice. Audubon observed the shrubs and trees moving from their roots and “the ground rose and fell like the ruffled water of a lake.” Audubon wrote that he felt like a child in a cradle as his horse rocked back-and-forth with imminent danger around him.

One of the most striking phenomena reported by terrified riverboat workers to curious researchers was the reports of bulging water and sudden ground displacement. 

As the general area experienced thousands of earthquakes in five months, people discovered that most of land crevices opening up during an earthquake ran from north to south, and when the earth began moving, they would chop down trees in an east-west direction and hold on using the tree as a bridge. There were "missing people" who were most likely swallowed up by the earth. Some earthquake fissures were as long as five miles. 

Another fascinating eyewitness account of the New Madrid earthquakes of 1811-1812 was eyewitness accounts of seeing strange lights flashing from the ground. We know nowadays that this is caused by quartz crystals being squeezed. This phenomena is called "seismoluminescence."

And there are several documented testimonies that describe how during the earthquakes, the sky turned so dark that lighted lamps didn't help. The air smelled bad, and it was hard to breathe. It is speculated that it was smog containing dust particles caused by the eruption of warm water into cold air. As well, sounds of distant thunder and loud explosions accompanied the earthquakes and people reported strange behavior by animals before the earthquakes. They were nervous and excited. Domestic animals became wild, and wild animals became tame. Snakes came out of the ground from hibernation. Flocks of ducks and geese landed near people.

(Courtesy: Wikipedia)

Even though this photograph was taken many years ago, to this day, there are still thousands of sand boils that remain visible, particularly in agricultural fields in Arkansas, Missouri, and Tennessee. Sand boils were caused by the tremendous ripple of the Earth when the earthquakes happened. They have appearance as light-colored sandy patches against the darker soil. The world's largest sand blow, known locally as "The Beach," is 1.4 miles long and 136 acres in extent in the Missouri Bootheel.

(Courtesy: Wikipedia)

Visible signs from the 1811-1812 New Madrid earthquakes, that can still be seen today, are primarily geological features resulting from ground deformation and soil liquefaction. Upon visiting the New Madrid Missouri region, it's impossible not to see geological traces of the greatest earthquake east of the Rockies. 

(Courtesy: TN.gov)

Reelfoot Lake is an 18,000-acre natural area located in Lake and Obion Counties in northwest Tennessee. The lake was created by a series of violent New Madrid fault zone earthquakes in the winter of 1811-1812. This lake regions beautiful scenery was formed by the subsidence of land (sinking by 1.5 to 6 meters in some places) during the earthquakes. Tree stumps killed by the sudden submergence can still be seen in the lake.

(Courtesy: Encyclopedia of Arkansas)

Big Lake in Arkansas, now part of the Big Lake National Wildlife Refuge, was fundamentally shaped by the massive 1811-1812 New Madrid Earthquakes. The earthquakes dramatically altered the Mississippi River's course, turning a river system into a swampy and  shallow lake and wetlands region. Today, this area serves as a vital waterfowl habitat and sump area. 

(Courtesy: ABC News)

Tar blobs can be found in the New Madrid Fault Zone. Earthquakes don't directly create tar balls, but they can trigger them by causing underwater ruptures in the river's floor, releasing trapped crude oil that then weathers and forms tar balls. These oil blobs form as light components evaporate, with waves and wind breaking the remaining heavy oil into sticky lumps mixed with debris, eventually washing ashore. 

From Then to Now.

New Madrid today is a quiet town in southeast Missouri, with modern buildings, farmland, and a community that knows the history beneath its feet. Yet even now, a strong quake would be felt far beyond the Bootheel — potentially into southern Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Indiana. Ground motion spreads efficiently in this part of the country, meaning communities hundreds of miles from the epicenter could feel shaking strong enough to rattle windows, doors, and livestock. Even small towns like Koshkonong, Missouri, hundreds of miles away, are part of the story. Minor quakes have been recorded near Koshkonong in recent times, a quiet reminder that the New Madrid Seismic Zone spans far and wide and is still alive and well beneath the soils of Southern Missouri.

Unlike the San Andreas Fault in California, which is clearly exposed, New Madrid’s faults are concealed beneath layers of soil and sand. Seismologists track hundreds of small quakes every year — usually magnitude 1 or 2, barely noticeable. Moderate shaking occurs roughly every 18 months, while magnitude 5+ quakes are expected once a decade. Though the region hasn’t seen a quake as powerful as the 1811–12 series in over 200 years, the potential remains, especially as the area continues to develop with towns, farms, and infrastructure. 

Preparing for the Unpredictable.

Almost everybody in Southern Missouri and beyond has a healthy respect and deep-rooted fear of the New Madrid Fault Area. Earthquakes provide no advance warning so preparedness is vital! State and local agencies emphasize the importance of plans that include safe shelter locations, emergency kits, livestock protection strategies, and community coordination. Nowadays, there's apps that you can download on your smart devices to keep you informed daily of earthquake activities. 

Preparedness isn’t fear — it’s Southern Missouri resilience rooted in history, knowledge and planning!

(Courtesy: City of New Madrid, Missouri)

New Madrid, Missouri, founded around 1783 as a Spanish trading post, is the county seat of New Madrid County and remains a significant river town with a history tied to the Mississippi River and the New Madrid fault line. 

The Human Element.

For those who lived through it and eventually died with their amazing earthquake accounts, the quakes were more than geological events — they were a test of endurance, courage, and respect for the land. Can you imagine the tremendous fear of sparce settlers, wondering what they had done to cause such a massive shake of "mother earth" beneath their feet. For so many, including riverboat workers, farmers, settlers, explorers, Native Americans and other walks of life, navigating through not only physical upheaval but the emotional weight of watching the world they knew twist and crack unexpectedly beneath them was a daily challenge. To this very day, it is a reminder that even in rural towns and farmsteads, no matter how complex the life or simple the communications, the earth is alive, moving in ways we cannot fully control. The quakes were a formative moment in the history of the Mississippi River Valley, shaping communities, livelihoods, and landscapes alike. If one travels to this area you can look closely and still see the thumbprint that was pressed so many years ago from the mighty New Madrid quakes. Ask any local of New Madrid, Missouri and they will tell you even though the levees seem solid of pushing back the mighty Mississippi, they still do not have total confidence in the weight of the water not rushing over the edge and consuming the region far and wide.

(Courtesy: City of New Madrid, Missouri)

Visiting along the banks of the "Big Muddy", one can only imagine that turmoil that took place over two centuries ago.

But for those who can possibly forget the threat of a quake that could happen at any moment, there are unforgettable times of embracing a unique way of life in the New Madrid fault area.

Written over two hundred years ago, the riverboat worker sums up his encounter with the New Madrid Earthquakes of 1811-1812: 

"Now I write not of fear… but of respect. The river has changed, and so have we. Folks speak less of terror now and more of listening — to land, to water, to the rumble beneath our feet. The earth breathes. Sometimes it shakes. We have learned to listen."

It is a sentiment that still resonates in Southern Missouri today — from New Madrid and further still, from farms to riverboats to cities — a quiet acknowledgment that the earth is alive and history has left its mark beneath our feet and possibly will do so again.

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